Shutter Cleaning - Richard Knoppow

The following was a response to a query about repairing Rapax shutters, but most of the post is relevant to any between-the-lens shutter.

I am unaware of any on-line material on Rapax or other shutters. The Rapax is a very good shutter made by Wollensak. Generally shutters can be cleaned with minimal disassembly by using naptha (Ronsonol or similar) and canned air. I used to recommend 1,1,1, Trichloroethane but its no longer available. Ronsonol lighter fluid seems to be pure enough not to leave a residue and won't attack most plastics or paints.

It should be blown out of the shutter with canned or other compressed air.

Where some lubrication is necessary a very light oil can be used in tiny amounts. Watch oil is ideal but Nyoil or the very light LeBell oil available from model railroad shops works well. Often, if shutters are really clean they will run dry.

Sometimes, if a shutter is simply sticking at low speeds a touch of solvent on the retarder gear train will unstick it.

A proper CLA is better but often such makeshifts work very well.

The Rapax shutter, also sold as the Graphex shutter by Graflex, is rather complex inside, if you get into it be careful of stuff popping out.

I thought I had seen a reprinted factory repair manual for Rapax but couldn't find one in a web search and don't myself have one.

A Calumet shutter tester is a necessity IMHO for anyone using older shutters (most LF folks). They are about $80 US and a bargain. Very easy to use and will measure anything from 35mm focal plane shutters to #5 Ilex Universals. They will also measure effective strobe time over a rather wide range. They are about the size of an exposure meter and run on a 9V battery.

Since many older shutters have weak springs they run slow at the higher speeds. Provided the speed is consistent it doesn't matter too much as long as you know what it is, hense my recommendation.

[8/27/2002 12:42:56 AM]
Cleaning Camera Shutters
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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dickburk@ix.netcom.com